Knocking at the Kitchen Door

Recommended eating in Napa: Kitchen Door in the Oxbow Public Market. Try the Pho Chicken Noodle Soup –– like a warm hug on a recent rainy day –– filled with noodles, bites of roasted chicken, bean sprouts, and cilantro. Also yummy is the Armenian Fold and Eat Flatbread, spread with a layer of spiced ground lamb then smothered with a green salad mixed with harissa yogurt dressing. Very tasty, and those marinated sweet onions are super.

One of the best hamburgers in all of Napa Valley (sorry Gott's!) is the grilled half-pound Kobe-style beef burger –– don't miss it. And the cream of mushroom soup is fabulous, no doubt a holdover from the Martini House in St. Helena, the previous great restaurant helmed by KD's chef Todd Humphries.

In its own space separate from the larger, cavernous market, Kitchen Door tends to be quieter and better for conversation. Try sitting at the small bar to watch the food-prep action, if desired, or out on the patio when it's sunny.

Some diners have been turned off by the restaurant's order-and-take-a-seat approach, but I found the staff exceptionally friendly and accommodating, offering lots of smiles and helpful information about what we were eating. There's a small but interesting wine list, with some "on tap" at reasonable prices, and many other beer and non-alcohol choices. Next time you're in Napa, make time for Kitchen Door.