Volunteer orchestra is a Sonoma County treasure

One of Sonoma County's non-wine-related treasures is the American Philharmonic orchestra, an all-volunteer ensemble of 75 talented professional musicians who can give any paid orchestra a run for its money. The group had humble beginnings, first performing in La Plaza Park in Cotati (and then known as the Cotati Philharmonic), more than a decade ago. Today their shows take place at Wells Fargo Center for the Arts in Santa Rosa, a big step up in size and class.

Called "An American Portrait," last night's performance focused on several American composers. That explains the clever reworking of the iconic Grant Wood painting "American Gothic," shown above, which appeared on the program's cover. But I was there mostly for Gershwin's Piano Concerto in F. I'd seen it performed live only once before –– by the London Symphony Orchestra with Andre Previn at the keyboard –– and more years ago than I care to cop to. I have at least three recordings of the concerto on vinyl and CD (that I can lay my hands on quickly), and possibly more stashed in boxes somewhere, by different orchestras, including the Previn version. At last night's concert, our homegrown orchestra nailed this difficult piece of music with aplomb, featuring Marilyn Thompson on the piano. She has oodles of credentials, and is currently on the faculty at Sonoma State University.

One of the best parts about attending these American Philharmonic concerts is the cost: $0. Technically there is no charge to sit and enjoy the music, and you can show your support by applause only. But they do appreciate donations, and in fact remind you several times during the evening to give what you can. It's not for the musicians –– they play for nothing. But renting the Wells Fargo Center is expensive ($18,000 for the Saturday evening performance and a Sunday matinee) and to pay the bills the orchestra depends on wads of paper money being stuffed into those fishbowls in the lobby as you enter and exit the venue.

The orchestra is so good they've been invited to play eight concerts in China, on a tour that begins right after Christmas. To learn more about the orchestra, visit www.apsonoma.org.

Fresh back from "Fresh": It's a keeper

I just enjoyed a terrific meal for the first time –– and certainly not the last –– at Lisa Hemenway's new venture "Fresh" in Santa Rosa. The name says it all. Open only a month, Fresh keeps the menu simple and offers whatever you need to take-away as well. There's a small sit-down restaurant in the center of the "market," with a wine bar along one side and extra tables near the bakery display. (And when the weather is agreeable, tables on the patio.) Surrounding all that is fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and baked goods. One aisle is all beverages, wine, microbrews, juices. In the back is a pizza oven that was getting a good workout during my visit. When you first walk in the door there's an assortment of gift items –– what I generally refer to as "girly" stuff –– such as bath products, candles, and so forth. But the remainder of the space is devoted to food.

I can recommend the pancetta and onion quiche, one of the best quiches I've ever had, accompanied by a generous side of crisp salad greens. Others in my party of 10 were equally excited about their turkey paninis (with the same side salad), and the curry chicken salad was also luscious. There were nice touches on every plate, from the finely sliced radish and olive garnish to the twisted toothpicks on the sandwiches. But the pizza fans at my table were disappointed –– their two thin-crust pies were delivered barely warm. Our waiter was pleasant and hard working, and even enthusiastic about producing separate checks.

If you visit, be sure to buy a dessert to go –– cookies, cakes, the marshmallow "thingy" pictured here, something called a mocha roll, or one of the butter horn pastries, with huge whole strawberries on top.

Lisa Hemenway has a long, successful history in the restaurant and catering business, primarily here in Sonoma County. Fresh looks like another winner.

Could these vines be evil?

I read this week that NBC has purchased a script called "Vines" about a vineyard in Napa Valley possessed with "mystical powers," and the trials and tribulations of the family that buys the "ancient" vines. Hmmm. Well, I guess that's one approach to spotlight Napa Valley on prime-time TV. NBC confirms that it did indeed buy the script but it may or may not develop it into a full-blown evening soap opera. First they have to make the pilot, and if it gets that far, then they have to find a slot for it. It's penciled in for a fall 2011 debut.

Hollywood has come calling here many times before, mostly for feature films, but only one TV series that I can remember has actually been based in Wine Country for the purpose of dramatizing the saga of a vineyard-owning family: "Falcon Crest," which originally aired on CBS during the 1980s and has come back around on syndication a time or two since. Perhaps if "Vines" becomes a hit, it can help us forget that earlier show.

Blimey! Tony Blair visits Sonoma County

Tony Blair, the former prime minister of Great Britain, was in Sonoma County yesterday. Surrounded by agents from the Secret Service and Scotland Yard, Tony made a quick swing through the small town of Graton for a private event to dedicate a solar energy project at Sonoma Wine Company, the town's major employer. Tony was at the facility to see for himself how their large-scale solar generation project works. Sonoma Wine Company performs custom grape crushing for many wineries and also produces its own labels, and the facility uses a lot of energy. Tony has a personal interest in the solar project's success, as he is now a senior advisor to the Silicon Valley-based venture fund that made it possible.

"Upscale-downscale" dining: street food

Street food in Wine Country is definitely hitting its stride. Blame it on –– or credit it to –– the Great Recession, along with the shifting demographics of our visitors. Today's tourists are looking for bargains, a change of pace from French or Italian restaurant fare, and a quick yet satisfying way to chow down exceptional "fast food" and then be on their way. Gone are the days of the "roach coach" and the "ptomaine truck" –– with persons of questionable hygiene behind the wheel and bad bacteria percolating on the food prep surfaces.

America was slow to pick up on the high-end street food phenomenon, as we've been reminded countless times by globe-trotting chef Anthony Bourdain on his TV show. But mobile food vendors are now popping up in greater numbers in California, in the southland and up here where I live.

"Meals on wheels" has taken on a whole new meaning in Wine Country. The trucks of yesteryear offered Mexican food or prepackaged fare akin to the dreck still found in airport vending machines. Today's mobile menu goes far beyond tacos, burritos, and hot dogs. Street food is now varied, delicious, and oh-so fresh. It's also safe to eat, with mobile practitioners of the culinary arts subject to food inspections similar to those required at brick-and-mortar restaurants.

Here are some mobile food vendors to check out if you're in the area. You can usually find out when and where they will be located by texting, tweeting, or visiting their Facebook pages. In Napa, look for the Mark's the Spot truck for sliders, fried chicken, and more. Phat Salads and Wraps, also in Napa, keeps it simple: breakfast and lunch wraps ranging from chicken to steak. Crossroad Chicken near the Napa Airport is serving pulled pork sandwiches and chili. Dim Sum Charlie's sets up near the Oxbow Market in Napa, offering a wide assortment of the tasty dumplings. In Sonoma County, sink your teeth into Taste of a Gyro in the town of Sonoma; Fork Catering in various locations in Santa Rosa, Sebastopol, and Occidental, offering burgers and salads; Chicago Style Hot Dogs in downtown Santa Rosa for a wine-soaked Pinot Dog; and the Street Eatz mobile kitchen for Mexican favorites and more.